Metro 2033 inspired "Trench" lighter pt 2

In my last post I got the design and cap sorted for the trench lighter.

Sneak preview of the finished lighter

A post shared by Anthony (@darkmidnight_diy) on Nov 10, 2018 at 12:13pm PST

Wick & Fuelling

Most refillable lighters such as the Zippo refill from the bottom, but I didn't want to make unnecessary modifications to the case itself, so I decided to create a removable wick mechanism that would allow the neck to also be used for fuelling.

To do this I needed to create a screw thread in the neck.

I started with this, and using a grinder rounded off the outside diameter until it sit snug in the neck. Finally added some solder to secure it in place.

Then I took this F-F coaxial (satellite cable) adapter, and drilled out the plastic middle, leaving a hollow tube with threads on the outside that fit the lighter.
Some wool strands twisted together to create a wick and pulled through this creates the removable wick.


Also at this point I filled the lighter with some wool padding to for the lighter fuel to soak into.


This just leaves the ignition source.

Ignition

I still have the inner components of the lighter that I used for the screwdriver bit holder. The flint is long gone, but the wheel could still be useful, so I pulled it apart and took that. There was also a spring that is used to press the flint to the wheel, so I scavenged that too.


The assembly was constructed from a piece of a picture hook, which was widened to accept the width of the flint wheel.

A small hole was drilled and a hollow copper tube attached to the bottom, where the flint and spring was placed, and held in place with a small screw. (see below GIF for clearer explanation)

This assembly was fixed in place using another plumbing olive around the neck of the cartridge and secured again with epoxy.

The lighter in action

Metro 2033 inspired "Trench" lighter

In Metro 2033 the main character, Artyom, carries a lighter fashioned from a bullet that can be used to light the way in dark areas and burn away obstacles such as cobwebs:

At a local country show I found an army surplus stand selling brass cartridge cases and saw an opportunity to make Artyoms lighter for real.

There is some real world history to this style of lighter. Known as a Trench lighter, items like this were quite common amongst troops in the trenches of the first World War, and relates to a wider concept of "Trench Art".

The case, I'm not sure what it's from.
It's approx .50" diameter at the neck,
but has stamp "SB 13"
 It seems too short to be a
standard .50 calibre round.

So with the case sorted, the next things to consider are:

• Cap/means of extinguishing the flame
• Wick
• Fuelling & refuelling.
• Ignition

Cap

I wanted to keep the lid of the lighter as a bullet style like in the game, but firearms law and lead content make the idea of using a real one infeasible and undesirable.

Instead I opted to grind the end of a copper bar down to a bullet shape, and hollow the inside slightly to make a cap.

The rounded copper bar.

Creating a hinge for the cap
The next stage is to create a hinge. A copper pipe clip was wrapped around the base of the cap, and secured with Araldite.

A second pipe clip was bent into a 'P' Shape and a bolt used to create the hinge (see gif below)

To attach this to the case, a brass olive from a pipe compression fitting (see pic.) was placed around the neck of the case, and the bottom half of the hinge was squeezed between it can the case to provide a frictional fit for now - it would later be further secured with epoxy.

Part two continues here

Leatherworking Punch Press

Following on from the stitching pony I built a while back, this is another leather-working tool build.

A post shared by Anthony (@darkmidnight_diy) on Oct 11, 2018 at 12:32pm PDT

Living in a flat I am a bit limited on what I can do DIY-wise due to noise, particularly in the evening. Even simply using a mallet with stitching chisels to punch holes in the leather can be a bit too much.

The aim of this project is to create a press-like tool that is sturdy enough for me to just push the chisels through the material, allowing me to work more quietly.

I opted for some hardwoods for this project as although the original plan for a very utilitarian tool, testing found a lot of flex and give in the cheaper pallet wood I'd originally planned to use.

The base and back are iroko, with oak providing the corner piece and the uprights that connect the lever, which is maple.

All the pieces are simply screwed together, with a bolt passing through the oak and maple to create the pivot.

The levers handle was rounded with a notch cut into it's underside to support the chisels, and a cheap cutting board was used to create a working surface.

Finally, a small scrap of leather was attached to the back with upholstery nails, which creates 4 loops, to store the chisels.

In time I intend to give the handle a leather wrap, but that can wait until I've got a suitably sized scrap to spare.

It works great, not only in reducing the noise, but is actually a lot faster to use than the mallet, so I'm a lot more productive as well.

3 Panel Oak Picture/Poster Frame

A few years ago I bought a set of three Hotline Miami posters from the Eurogamer Expo. As much as I liked them I never round to hanging them - I kept telling myself I'd get a good frame, but never did.


This frame was made from a single piece of oak, and consists of dovetail-like joints in for the middle of the structure with half-lap miters for the corners.

The glass was upcycled from 3 individual picture frames from the local scrapyard - The existing frames were completely mismatched and in a bad state, but they all happened to have the same size glass, which cleaned up easily for this new frame.

Pic of the finished frame below, with sketch/build video below.

A post shared by Anthony (@darkmidnight_diy) on Sep 12, 2018 at 4:38am PDT

Standing Desk

I was asked by a family member if I could build them a standing desk.

The problem was, being family I couldn't really say no, but they included these specifications:

• "Nothing too fancy"
• "Just cheap timber will do, nothing too expensive"
• "...but 'good' wood - not old pallets or anything like that"

They thought they were being helpful by making an easier job of it, but truth be told, they were making it boring. Might as well nail a bit of plywood to some 2x2 legs and call it a day.

So to make it more interesting, I set myself a challenge - to build it with no screws/nails/fasteners, and no glues. All pure wood joinery.


The desk is for a laptop user, they also use external multimedia speakers and have a large, old-fashioned laser printer.

The Video
While doing the write up of this project, it was getting difficult to coherently describe how it was all put together without writing a huge wall of text.

I do a lot of sketching of designs before I build them, and it occurred to me that I could make this more of a feature, so I put them all together here:

I quite like the general style of the videos and will probably start documenting future projects this way as well - although I'm sure over time the process and output will improve.

Drinko Plinko

This is far from an original project - Turns out "Plinko" was popularised by The Price is Right, but I only ever knew it from the drinking related version...

The finished project

 

A post shared by Anthony (@darkmidnight_diy) on Aug 8, 2018 at 1:59pm PDT

The premise is simple. There's a bottle opener at the top, a field of pins in the middle, and a number of boxes at the bottom. Bottle gets opened, bottle top falls into the field, bounces around the pins, and goes into one of the boxes at the bottom - these usually come with forfeits/suggestions like "Down it", "Take a shot" etc.

The build

The grid was based off a template from a half inch isometric dots.

Use a bottle cap to measure which points should be used and mark them.
Spray glue the template(s) down to the backing board - don't forget to allow space at the top for the bottle opener itself.

Simply place a nail at each point marked on the template, paying attention to keep the nail heights constant.


Once that's done, peel away the template and remove the nails.
Position the backing image as desired, and then replace the nails - you should be able to do this by feeling for the holes under the background image.

The edges are simply mitred and attached to the backing board with glue and brad nails. They had a rebate cut into them to hold the plastic/glass front.


The wood I used was chipboard from some old drawers, so the rebate was already there. I intended to sand down the wood, but in combination with the grey/blue paint I used, it gave a neat faux-concrete look which fit well with the Fallout/post-apocalyptic theme, so I decided to leave it.

The five 'buckets' at the bottom were just small scraps, painted and also attached to the backing with glues and brad nails.
The front is a bit of clear plastic I salvaged from a broken poster frame and cut to size.

Screw the bottle opener into place and all that's left is to decorate.

For the forfeit stickers I found some character images of Fallout characters online, and used the Monofonto font, which is similar to the font used in Fallout, and created the forfeits.

• Brotherhood of Steel - Cheers! - no forfeit
• Super Mutant - Take a drink
• "Glowing One" Ghoul - Take a drink
• Mirelurk - Down it
• Deathclaw - Take a shot

These were printed onto clear adhesive vinyl, cut out and stuck to the backing board. In hindsight they could've done with a lighter background to help them stand out (when working with transparencies, it's easy to forget that the white background won't necessarily be there in the end), but live and learn.

Lighter screwdriver bit holder

A sign of a brilliant project is one that is "obvious with hindsight" - when you see it, it suddenly seems so simple that you end up annoyed at yourself for not having thought of it yourself.

For me, Laura Kampf's Zippo Lighter driver bit case was one of those projects.

I've had a similar lighter kicking about in the junk drawer for years, always holding onto it because I liked the aesthetic of it and wanted to use it in a project, but never knowing what that project was.

So I'll admit, this was a shameless copy of Laura's project, but as I don't have access to a milling machine, I had to take a different approach. The insert that I have created is 3D printed, and relies on a friction fit to hold the parts rather than magnets.

Rather than use the free plan, I decided to create my own, adding an additional hollow in the middle of the insert. The idea was that this less-accessible compartment could contain less frequently used driver bits, but still keep them together with the others.

In reality, the fit of the insert is a bit too tight to allow the compartment to be easily accessed, but it does still serve a purpose in reducing the amount of filament required to print the model (compared to leaving that part solid).

I also found that my lighter has a small metal tab in the lid that got in the way once the driver bits were in place, but this was easily removed with pliers. (I'm not sure is this is a typical thing of these lighters, or just because the one I'm using is an off-brand knockoff.)

A post shared by Anthony (@darkmidnight_diy) on Jul 22, 2018 at 3:38am PDT

I have to concede that the insert would've looked better in metal, but from a functionality perspective it works just as well, and sometimes you just have to work with what you've got.

The STLs for the model can be found on Thingiverse, and the OpenSCAD code is on GitHub.