LAN-party in a box, part 1

Part 1 - The Story So Far
 
The title’s pretty much self-explanatory. My colleague, Ray, and I were talking about “The good old days” of online gaming – before Call of Duty, when the dominant games were Unreal Tournament, Quake 3, Counterstrike and the like.

We were toying with the idea of trying to run a LAN game over the work network, but figured the bureaucratic headache that would cause wasn’t worth it.

Then I got to thinking about how to cram everything we’d need for a LAN game into a single portable box, and could easily be set-up, used and torn down again within a lunch hour.

The great thing about returning to older games is that the system requirements, that once required hi-end PCs will now run on pretty much any old commodity hardware. What once meant lugging around heavy, bulky desktops, separate monitors and keyboards, could be replaced with a modern, lightweight laptop.

Ray was bringing in his laptop, and I setup an old laptop for me to use.

I installed Fedora 25 from a live CD (no particular reason for this distro, other than I had a live CD for it to hand – I’m sure others will work fine) Installed WINE, and the game.

We also wanted to use a dedicated server, so I dug through my stack of old hardware to find something to use - and I setup the server using an old netbook.

The networking was provided by an old home router of mine, which supplied DHCP configuration, making the network a straightforward plug and play.

This whole setup was stuffed into a metal flight-case for taking into work, and worked well for a spot of lunchtime multi-player, but there were a few downsides:

• Cabling – lots of mains plugs and network cables.
• Size - it's quite a substantial amount of gear to lug around - the flight case measures 33x46x15 cm and is packed pretty full.
• Although UT runs quite well in WINE, there is definitely some latency. The server seems fine, but graphically on the client machine, it's noticeable
  

The original setup - the netbook in the background is the current server.

Obviously something needs to be done to address the shortcomings, so this will form the basis of my next project - it should be a nice mix of DIY (for the case) and tech (hardware, software config, networking etc).

Update: Part 2 is now here

Wiresaw from Guitar String

A wire saw is piece of wire used for cutting. It's kind of like a band saw blade, except instead of having teeth, it cuts using abrasion - like a Dremel cutting disc does. It's a useful addition to the toolkit - it's one of those tools that might not see everyday use, but those times when you do need it, it more than pays for itself.

Most retail wire-saws tend to be aimed at the military / survivalist market, but I find mine most useful in trimming supports from 3D prints and cutting in hard to reach spots when dismantling electronics.

The great thing about wiresaws, is a lot of people will have one in their home, even without realising it. My wire saw is a string from a guitar.

The wound nickel creates the abrasive surface, being nickel it's quite resistant to the heat from the abrasion, and being a guitar string, is designed to withstand bending and flexing.

the downside to this, is they can be a pain to keep tidy. As they bend, they become more difficult to keep tidy.

So as a weekend project I made a simple case to store the wiresaw, helping to wind it neatly, yet keep it accessible.


As this was an off-the-cuff project, these measurements were not measurement by design, but what they ended up as after the fact, and are just there to give a rough indication of the sizes required.

I started with a 35mm length of dowel (10mm diameter). which i drilled two small holes through.






I grabbed a scrap piece of pine and cut a 20x35x55mm piece. I used a 20mm spade bit to drill partially into the 35mm side, and then used a 10mm drill to cut the rest of the way to the other side.

I used a router to carve out a groove from this hole to the short edge of the wood. There was a bit of tear out, but it doesn't affect it. The staple across the groove it there to act as a guide for the wire. I put the dowel in place, so that one of the drilled holes is on each side.




The guitar string is threaded through the carved channel, threaded through the dowel hole and tied. A piece of hardboard was cut to size, a 10mm hole drilled in line with the dowel and nailed to this side, effectively 'closing' the case. A small drill bit was pushed through the protruding dowel hole on the other side, and turned to wind the string in. A keyring was tied to the other end of the string, as a handle for the saw.

The drill bit was replaced with a loop of copper wire to provide a winding handle.

In an ideal world, this would have auto-retracted, like a tape measure, but some testing that I did showed that wasn't really practical.

Finally everything was trimmed to size and sanded down.

The finished project, closed (left) and open (above)

In-Car GoPro headrest mount

I recently got a GoPro camera, primarily so that I can start using it to create more video content for this blog, but also from time-to-time I do driving track days, and would like to use the camera there as well.

On track days, a mechanical mount is required for any cameras mounted to the car (i.e., no suction cups to the windscreen). I wanted to capture some footage with my GoPro, so started searching around for in car mounts. The one I found mounted to the headrest, so that the camera sat at head level, between the driver and passenger seats. However, the price tag on it was ridiculous (£120+) for what is essentially a metal bar with a mount at the end. So I decided to make my own.

It centres around a length of square aluminium tube. I purchased a 500mm length online, expecting to need to cut it down a bit, but as it happens that length is ideal for my car, so I decided to leave it as-is.

The next step is to measure the position and diameter of the headrest poles. For this I just removed my passenger headrest and marked their position directly onto the tube.
The diameter calls for holes of 14mm.

Obviously, drills intended for metalwork would be preferable, but as aluminium is quite a soft metal, woodworking ones can be used in a pinch. I used a 14mm forstner drill to punch through the tube.

The bolt that will hold the 3D printed gripper in place, with holes drilled for a adjustable grip on the other side

To secure the bar to the headrest, I designed and 3D printed the parts shown below

Headrest clamp.
SCAD code listed below

The idea being that once printed, they're split into 2, and fit into the aluminium tube, where they're secured with a bolt and locking nut so that they clamp against the headrest poles. On one side the bolt will be able to be loosened and slid away, to loosen the grip, allowing the mount to be removed.
A small amount of Sugru was also applied to the inside of the plastic mounts, to provide a 'grippier' surface against the headrest, and hopefully avoid it being scratched.

GoPro Adapter.
SCAD code listed below.

I tried using some designs for GoPro mounts that I found on Thingiverse, so save me having to reinvent the wheel, however the ones I tried didn't work too well, and snapped. I decided to use one of the mounts which came with the camera, have it fit in a 3D printed frame (see right)



The initial idea was to have this fit flush in the tube, with cut outs for the mount, and holes for the bolt to thread through. However, I instead ended up oversizing the 3D printed frame, and it fit tightly into the end of the tube, so I decided to leave it as-is, although opted to keep the bolt, just to ensure the 3D printed and original GoPro mount are securely together (they're a snug fit anyway, and the bolt is probably redundant, but I'd rather have the extra layer of protection).

Test Video

 
SCAD code for the head rest clamp

difference() {
    cube([60,15,15]);
    translate([25,7.5,-1]) {cylinder(50,7,7,true);}
    translate([9,7.5,-1]) {cylinder(50,3.5,3.5,true);}
    translate([41,7.5,-1]) {cylinder(50,3.5,3.5,true);}
    translate([41,7.5,9.1]) {cylinder(r=6, h=6, $fn=6);}
    translate([9,7.5,9.1]) {cylinder(r=6, h=6, $fn=6);}
}

SCAD code for the GoPro adapter

difference() {
    lCube();
    cube([15,10,50], center=true);
    rotate([90,0,0]) {
        cylinder(50,3,3,$fn=50,center=true);
    }
}
difference() {
    cube([25,3,16],center=true);
    rotate([90,0,0]) {
        cylinder(50,3,3,$fn=50,center=true);
    }
}
module lCube() {
    cube([25,16,16], center=true);
    translate([20,0,0]) {
        cube([25,16,16], center=true);
    }
    
}

Old Hand Saw Restoration

I found these old saws in my local scrap store for a quid. I've always been a fan of the old-fashioned aesthetic of wooden handles. So being just a quid, I thought I'd grab them, although I wasn't really sure what I wanted to do with them.

Before

A post shared by Anthony (@darkmidnight_diy) on Mar 14, 2017 at 6:23am PDT

The Blades
The blades were very rusty, and I wasn't sure if they'd be salvageable. I was only really after the wooden handles anyway, but thought it'd be worth a shot restoring them.

One of the "old-wives tale"-type solutions for rust is white vinegar. I was sceptical, but it's a cheap option, so I gave it a shot, and it worked surprisingly well.

It takes some time, but takes little actual working time - I just set up the blades soaked in the vinegar (I found it easier to wrap the blades in kitchen roll/tissue paper and soaking that, rather than trying to find a suitably sized container).

I did that first thing in the morning, left them most of the day and later rinsed them off and scrubbed the blades. It got the worst off, but there was still a few spots of rust that remained. For that I used a wire brush.

The screws were brass, and cleaned up easily with Brasso.

The Handles
The handle of the tenon saw was in the worst state of the two - removing the blade revealed quite a large crack running from the near screw hole to the hand opening. During disassembly this caused a fragment to break away, but I was able to glue it back neatly with Superglue and it's not noticeable unless it's being looked for.

The flat sides of the handle I sanded with an orbital sander, but sanding the curved areas required a Dremel and a lot of patience.

Once sanded both handles were stained with a redwood stain, applied using a cloth rather than a brush (I find this highlights the natural woodgrain better).

After

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Now they're restored, I'm still not entirely sure what to do with them. I have plenty of other saws, so it's not like I'll particularly need them for actual work, so I'll likely just use them for some artsy display or something in the workshop.

Side note: After removing all the rust, I discovered this faint engraving on the side of the tenon saw. It says PT2250, and appears hand-engraved.

It's very faint and difficult to photograph clearly, but it's hand written and says "PT 2250". Wonder what it means?

Farcry-inspired Leather Notebook part 2

In my last post, I started making a leather notebook inspired by Farcry. For the first part of this build, click here.


Paper
I opted to use a mix of papers in the notebook, so it could be useful in multiple situations - I included lined, plain, squared, and sketch (plain, thicker stock paper).





Pen Loop
I wanted to get some practice using hardware with the leather, so I used a scrap of leather of approx 1 inch width, wrapped it around a pen for size, and trimmed it to create a pen loop, which I fixed to the left of the notebooks cover flap, so it would sit in the fold opposite the spine, which will help balance out the overall thickness of the notebook (to help achieve the stated aim of keeping it pocket-size).

The Cover

I shaped the cover with a curve, and added an eyelet hole. This is to thread a leather lace to act as a closure for the book.

The lace itself, was literally a leather shoe lace - I had to cut it short, and slice it lengthways to fit the eyelet.


The Farcry journal had a small metal charm-type item on the end of the lace, which serves as kind of latch mechanism, as well as having it's aesthetic appeal.

I didn't have anything particularly symbolic or meaningful, but I did have a small hollow metal die that came from a Christmas cracker, and a metal hook. I filled the hollow die with contact cement and screwed in the hook, giving it time to set, then tied that into the other end of the lace.

The finished notebook

A post shared by Anthony (@darkmidnight_diy) on Jan 17, 2017 at 2:16pm PST

Despite the caption, I think this project will be one I never really consider 'finished'. There are plenty of things I would change if I re-did the project, but given that this is my first attempt at making something with leather, I'm very pleased with how it's turned out. I'll definitely be keeping leather work in my repertoire.


I envision that as a project book, it will be modified and tinkered with as I learn new things and will be a bit of a 'test bed' - two things that immediately spring to mind is the finishing of the materials' edges, and embossing a logo or emblem into the cover.

Farcry-inspired Leather Notebook

This year I resolved to pick up a new skill.

A key game mechanic in Farcry 4 is the survival and "living-off-the-land" aspect of the fictional island of Kyrat. Part of this aspect is hunting, and using the pelts to craft useful items, such as backpacks, holsters etc.

That, coupled with seeing some leatherwork done by Jimmy DiResta in his videos, inspired me to have a go and teach myself some leathercraft.

For a first project, I decided to make a leather notebook, based of this faux-leather journal that came with the collectors edition of Farcry 4 (left).

I'm the kind of person whose idea of a notebook is usually a sheet of printer paper folded into four. I usually start using a notebook, only to find various flaws that stop it fitting into my workflow - like being too large to fit in a pocket, getting left behind, nowhere to add additional sheets, etc. So this seems like a good chance to make something exactly how I want it.





Spec

Essential:

• Refillable using cheap paper (ie, printer paper folded into four)
• Fit in the back pocket of a pair of jeans.

Other nice-to-haves:

• Mix of paper - it'd be handy to have lined, plain, squared/graph paper in one notebook.
• Space for printouts/other paper - some kind of pocket.
• Pen loop

Process
The size was based around a sheet of A4 paper folded into quarters, with approximately 1 inch added for the spine.

Another layer of leather was added in the spine to strengthen it, and fixed with contact cement.
Four loops of thread, stretching from top to bottom of the spine were added, approx a quarter inch apart. This will be where the paper is mounted - either I can use it for four different types of paper, or treat it as four sections for different projects.

A second outer layer of leather was added to the back, the same height as the main section, but wider (total width approx 300mm. This excess piece would create the wrap-around cover for the book.)



I misjudged the behaviour of the main front and back cover - I thought that the double layer of leather would behave as though they were a single, thicker layer. However, I found when folding them, the inner layer would bulge out slightly, so I was concerned about using contact cement to join them.

Although this did create an opportunity - stitching each side and the base of each cover meant that I could leave the tops open and create pockets for printouts and other papers.

This finished off the main structure of the notebook, with the next steps being to refine it and add finishing details (and of course, paper), which I will cover in a later post (Update - Part 2 is here)

Reclaimed Wood Kitchen Tidy

I live in a small flat, and in the kitchen there's not a lot of storage. As a result, the bins (general waste & recycling) have always just lived in the corner of the room. It's not a major issue, but bins aren't exactly nice to look at, made worse given that it's an open plan kitchen shared with the lounge area.

I found a couple of solid wood bedframes that were otherwise destined for the landfill, and took them apart, and used the timber to build this kitchen tidy unit. There's not really any new or ground-breaking techniques to document, so the rest of this is predominantly a photo post.

I'm pleased with the result, and I plan to do more reclaimed wood projects in the future - as all the timber was reclaimed, the only material cost ended up being the wood dye and varnish, which makes woodworking much more affordable.

The original sketch for the upcycled shelf and bin cupboard I built in the summer. #woodwork #DIY #handmade

A photo posted by Anthony (@darkmidnight_diy) on Jan 25, 2017 at 12:29pm PST

New project. Shelf and bin cupboards from reclaimed bed frame timber #woodworking #woodwork #DIY #doityourself #reclaimedwood

A photo posted by Anthony (@darkmidnight_diy) on Oct 11, 2016 at 4:58am PDT

Nearly done, just need to finish the doors, and then sand and finish everything. #DIY #doityourself #reclaimedwood #upcycled #handmade

A photo posted by Anthony (@darkmidnight_diy) on Oct 14, 2016 at 5:42am PDT

The kitchen tidy after sanding (top left) dyed and varnished (bottom left) and in use (right). #diy #woodwork #reclaimedwood #handmade

A photo posted by Anthony (@darkmidnight_diy) on Jan 27, 2017 at 4:37am PST